Things to do in Plaine des Palmistes, gateway to the Bébour forest
Sitting at 1,000m on the Route des Plaines, this highland plateau is the northern gateway to the Bébour-Bélouve primary forest and the trail to Trou de Fer. Add Creole heritage at Maison Folio, the Sunday market and geranium distilling, in one of the wettest places in France.
1,000m altitude725m Trou de Fer6,000 ha Bébour-Bélouve13-22°C cool and humid
Quick facts
The essentials on the Plaine
Type
Highland plateau (the Hauts)
Altitude
≈1,000m
Population
≈6,000 residents
Distance from Saint-Benoît
≈25km · 30 min
Distance from Saint-Pierre
≈50km · 1h
Climate
13-22°C, humid
Specialities
Geranium, cheese, fa'ham
Market
Sunday, town hall square
Plaine des Palmistes sits in the corridor between Saint-Benoît and Plaine des Cafres. Part of Reunion Island's national park, it holds one of the last high-altitude primary forests left in the world. It's farming country too: Bourbon geranium, cheeses from the Hauts, fa'ham and guavas, grown on fertile volcanic soils watered year-round. (Fa'ham is a native orchid used to flavour syrups and tea.)
5 must-sees
Trou de Fer, Bébour, Biberon, Maison Folio, Grand Étang
Five sites that make the Plaine worth the stop, from the famous to the more low-key. They combine easily over one or two days.
Trou de Fer, from the trail and from the air
France's highest waterfall (725m combined drops) hides in a wooded chasm. The classic trail starts from the Bélouve mountain lodge, 30 minutes along a forest road from the Plaine (D55, Petite Plaine, Col de Bébour). The final viewpoint is currently closed after a cliff collapse, so a helicopter is now the only way to see the falls from above. The trail itself is still open through the forest and leads to the other viewpoints.
Bébour-Bélouve primary forest
A 6,000ha forest inside the national park, with centuries-old mountain tamarind trees, tree ferns, moss, lichen and endemic orchids. Several nature trails start from the Plaine: Sentier de l'École Normale (easy, 1h-1h30), Sentier Botanique and Sentier de la Plaine des Marsouins. The fog rolls in fast, so set off early with a windproof jacket in your bag.
Cascade Biberon
Three cascading drops totalling about 240m, a 30 to 45-minute return walk from the car park. The trail is waymarked through damp, lush forest, and you can swim in the plunge pool (guaranteed cold, 14 to 18°C). Go in the morning, before the sea of clouds rolls in.
Maison Folio and Domaine des Tourelles
Iconic Creole heritage. Maison Folio (late 19th century), a colourful wooden case (traditional Creole house), is home to the tourist office and a medicinal plant garden. Domaine des Tourelles, a restored former manor, hosts craftspeople (a geranium distiller, vacoa (screwpine) basket weaving), exhibitions, a park, kiosks and a wood-fired restaurant. Free entry, open all week.
Grand Étang, by trail or on horseback
A 15-minute drive from the Plaine, heading down towards Saint-Benoît. It's the island's only high-altitude lake (530m, about 1km long): walk around it in 2 hours, or spend a half-day on horseback from the riding centre. Showers are frequent but brief, so bring a rain jacket. If you want the highlight without the full loop, a wooden viewpoint is 30 minutes from the car park.
Hikes from the Plaine
From a 30-minute stroll to a 6-hour trek
Six waymarked trails starting from the Plaine or the Bélouve mountain lodge, from an easy family loop to a strenuous trek towards Salazie, so there's something for every level. Always check the weather forecast: the forest is very humid and the fog rolls in fast.
Easy · 1h30
Sentier de l'École Normale
An easy loop in Bébour, 1h to 1h30, and a perfect introduction to the primary forest. The trail is wide and shaded, suitable for children from age 5.
Moderate · 4-5h
Trou de Fer loop
From the Bélouve mountain lodge, 12km return on tracks, moderate elevation gain. The final viewpoint is currently closed due to a rockfall, but the viewpoints along the way and the walk through the forest are still well worth it.
Easy · 2h
Sentier Botanique
A nature trail loop in the heart of Bébour, with information panels on the endemic flora, centuries-old mountain tamarinds and tree ferns. Ideal for understanding what you're looking at.
Easy · 30-45 min
Cascade Biberon
A short out-and-back walk from the car park. You can swim in the plunge pool (very cold water). Avoid after rain: the river rises fast.
Easy · 1h30
Bras des Calumets
A family-friendly trail along the river with little elevation gain, small pools, wooden bridges and the damp undergrowth typical of the Hauts.
Strenuous · 6h
Bébour to Hell-Bourg trek
For well-prepared hikers: a full-day traverse to Salazie via the Plaines. Only in dry weather, and arrange a taxi or shuttle back if you don't have two vehicles.
Bélouve to Trou de Fer with a local guide, Trou Blanc canyoning in Salazie, Marsouins rafting from Saint-Benoît, and a helicopter to see Trou de Fer from above. My checked selection.
With the official Bélouve trail viewpoint closed following a cliff collapse, the only way to look down into Trou de Fer (725m combined drops, France's highest waterfall) today is a helicopter flyover.
The full east coast route flies over the Salazie cirque, the Bébour-Bélouve primary forests, Piton des Neiges and Mafate. Flights last 30 to 55 minutes and cost €205 to €345 depending on the company, with better value for groups of four.
Trou de Fer only rewards those who beat the clouds, which means arriving before 10am. Sleeping in a van at the Plaine or in the Col de Bébour car parks lets you be at the trailhead by dawn, while the light still filters through the tree ferns. Yescapa lists campervans available in Reunion Island, with airport delivery on request.
The Plaine's Sunday market is small, but that's exactly what makes it worthwhile: what's sold here is grown right here. Producers from the Hauts arrive at dawn. Bringellier cheese, tropical vacherin, pink berry honey, fa'ham syrup, guava jam in season (May to July), bonbons piment (chilli fritters) and samosas. Arrive around 7.30am for the best choice, as stalls often pack up by 11am.
Just steps away, the Maison du Géraniumstill distils Bourbon geranium essential oil, the town's pride. There's a short tour of the still and a shop selling oil, hydrosol and cosmetics. You can smell the geranium from the road as soon as you drive up onto the Plaine: it's the area's signature scent.
For food: Les Terrasses de la Plaine (wood-fired cooking with a forest view), Ti Case Lontan (homestyle Creole cooking), Snack Le Relais des Tourelles (daily specials with local vegetables at fair prices). Booking is recommended at weekends.
An hour's drive away
Day trips from Plaine des Palmistes
The Plaine sits centrally on the island. Saint-Benoît to the east, Salazie to the west, Le Tampon and Plaine des Cafres to the south, Sainte-Suzanne and Saint-André to the north-east. Six ideas for a half-day or full day. Most are only really practical by van or car. If your travel dates aren't set in stone yet, choose a rental you can cancel and collect it when you land at Roland-Garros.
What is there to do at Plaine des Palmistes in Reunion Island?
The Plaine is above all the northern gateway to the Bébour-Bélouve primary forest and the trail to Trou de Fer (725m, France's highest waterfall). Add to that Cascade Biberon (30 min return), the Creole heritage of Maison Folio and Domaine des Tourelles, the Sunday market on the town hall square, the geranium distillery and several family hikes. Saint-Benoît (Takamaka, Marsouins rafting) is 30 minutes away, the Salazie cirque 50 minutes.
Is the Trou de Fer viewpoint accessible?
Not currently. The final viewpoint on the Bélouve trail has been closed since a cliff collapse, with no reopening date set. You can still walk in the forest and reach intermediate viewpoints, but the plunging view from the official viewpoint is no longer possible on foot. The only clear view of the waterfall today is by helicopter, from Saint-Pierre or Pierrefonds.
Plaine des Palmistes or Plaine des Cafres?
Plaine des Palmistes (1,000m, west of Saint-Benoît) is wetter and greener, geared towards primary forest and Creole heritage. Plaine des Cafres (1,600m, to the south) is drier, more agricultural, and gives access to the volcano road. Many itineraries combine the two: one day at Plaine des Palmistes plus Bébour, another at Plaine des Cafres plus Piton de la Fournaise.
What's the weather like at Plaine des Palmistes?
Cool and humid year-round, 13 to 22°C depending on the season. It's one of the wettest places in the whole of France, overseas territories included. In the wet season a sea of clouds can roll in as early as 11am, and fog is common in the late afternoon. Pack a fleece and a windproof jacket even in summer. The dry season (June to October) is the most settled, ideal for Bébour and Trou de Fer.
How do you get to the Bébour forest from the Plaine?
From the centre of the Plaine, take the D55 towards Petite Plaine, then the forest road on the right. You cross the Col de Bébour (1,500m) before reaching the Bélouve mountain lodge car park. Allow 25 to 30 minutes' drive. The road is narrow and slippery when wet, so take care.
Is Cascade Biberon worth the detour?
Yes, if you enjoy short walks in damp forest. It has three cascading drops (240m combined) and a waymarked trail, 30 to 45 minutes return from the car park. You can swim in the plunge pool, but the water is cold (14 to 18°C). Worth combining with a visit to Domaine des Tourelles on the way down.
How long should you stay at the Plaine?
A full day covers the essentials: the Sentier de l'École Normale, Cascade Biberon, Maison Folio. Two days if you want to add the Trou de Fer loop or branch out to Salazie and Saint-Benoît. Three days for hikers aiming for the longer links. It works better as a stop during a stay in Saint-Pierre or Saint-Benoît than as your only base.
Where can you stay at Plaine des Palmistes?
There are several rural gîtes (self-catering cottages) and charming guesthouses, the 3-star Hôtel des Plaines and a few lodges around Bébour. Expect €60-110 a night depending on the type of accommodation. For early risers heading to Trou de Fer, the Bélouve mountain lodge lets you sleep right by the trailhead, by reservation. A Yescapa campervan is a good option for reaching Bébour easily at dawn.
What can you buy at the Sunday market?
The town hall market is small but authentic, on Sunday mornings. Cheeses from the Hauts (bringellier, tropical vacherin), pink berry and tamarind honey, fa'ham and pomme-bois syrups, guava jam in season (May-July), dairy products, geranium oil or infusion. Arrive around 7.30am, as the best stalls sell out fast.
Is the primary forest suitable for children?
Yes. Several easy loop trails: Sentier Botanique (2h, educational panels), Sentier de l'École Normale (1h30, from age 5), Bras des Calumets (1h30, flat ground). Boots or fast-drying shoes are recommended, as the trail gets muddy after rain. See my family guide: 12 easy hikes with children.
What should you bring back from Plaine des Palmistes?
Bourbon geranium essential oil and hydrosol (Maison du Géranium), cheeses from the Hauts, local honey, fa'ham syrup, guava jam and chutneys, vanilla from the cooperatives. The vacoa basket weaving from Domaine des Tourelles also makes a good souvenir.
How do you get to Plaine des Palmistes?
From Saint-Benoît, 30 minutes via the N3. From Saint-Pierre, 1 hour via the Route des Plaines (the more scenic option). From Saint-Denis and Roland-Garros airport, 1h20 via the N2 then the N3. A car is essential for reaching Bébour. Without a car, take Car Jaune bus line 02 (Saint-Denis to Saint-Benoît, then change) or line 12 (Saint-Pierre to the Plaine).