Things to do in Sainte-Suzanne: Niagara Waterfall, Bassin Bœuf and more
Most people drive straight through Sainte-Suzanne on the way from Saint-Denis to Saint-Benoît. Stop, and you'll find a waterfall a few steps from the car park, the island's first lighthouse (1846), a family-friendly canyon at Bassin Bœuf, an old railway tunnel, and the place where vanilla history was made. The quiet side of the north-east.
25m Niagara1846 Bel Air lighthouseBassin Bœuf family canyon25 min from Saint-Denis
At a glance
The essentials on Sainte-Suzanne
Type
North-east coastal town
Population
≈25,000 residents
From Saint-Denis
≈18km · 25 min
From Saint-André
≈10km · 15 min
Climate
22-30°C, humid
Niagara Waterfall
25m, swimming allowed
Bel Air lighthouse
1846, 20.25m
Market
Tuesday morning
Sainte-Suzanne stretches from the sea up into the hills, on some of the first land to be settled on the island. It's one of Reunion Island's oldest towns, with a low-key but genuine heritage of sugar, railways and churches, and it's more rural and quieter than Saint-Denis, 25 minutes away by car. Sitting just down the N2 from Roland-Garros airport, Sainte-Suzanne works well as a first stop for a van or car trip: reserve a hire car for your arrival day.
5 highlights
Niagara, the lighthouse, the coast, the Chien tunnel, Bassin Bœuf
Five stops mixing nature, heritage and a coastal walk, easy to string together into a full day.
Niagara Waterfall, the easiest in the north
On the Sainte-Suzanne river, less than 2km from the town centre, the water drops 25m down a basalt cliff into an emerald pool where you can swim except when the river is in flood. It's just 30 metres from the car park, with a picnic area that's popular with local families on Sundays. In the morning, a rainbow often forms in the spray.
First lit in 1846, working ever since and automated in 1991, this listed 20.25m red and white tower stands on a wooded headland by the sea. You can't go inside any more, but the grounds are made for a stroll, with a garden, a viewpoint indicator and the start of the coastal path. Lovely at sunset.
Chemin du Littoral, 4km along the coast
A flat greenway linking the town centre with several seaside hamlets as far as Quartier Français. There are no hills, so it's fine for pushchairs and bikes, and it passes old sugar mills, railway bridges and shelters. Great for families, and one of the most pleasant walks on the windward (east) coast.
The Chien tunnel and its heritage trail
A former tunnel on the old coastal railway (the CFR, which ran from 1882 to 1956). Today it's a shady footpath with fern-covered arches and a timeless feel. The flat route between Sainte-Suzanne and Bagatelle suits families, passing the remains of sugar mills and old railway bridges along the way.
Bassin Bœuf, swimming and beginner canyoning
Upstream from Niagara Waterfall, about 5km inland, this is a swimming spot with clear, cool water and one of the island's easiest canyons for beginners (jumps you can choose to skip, natural slides, few abseils). The best season is June to November. Guided trips from age 12, sometimes 10 depending on the operator.
Heritage and local produce
Domaine du Grand Hazier, Savanna, the Tuesday market
Sainte-Suzanne is one of the birthplaces of Bourbon vanilla: it was here, in 1841, that Edmond Albius, a 12-year-old enslaved boy, invented hand pollination, the technique that made large-scale vanilla growing possible. Four places that tell the story, past and present.
Domaine du Grand Hazier
A listed Creole mansion from 1832, 5km from the town centre, with a vanilla garden and an exhibition on the hand pollination technique discovered by Edmond Albius in 1841. Guided tour of 30-45 minutes, tasting and shop, €8 per person. Pairs well with a morning at Niagara.
Savanna Distillery (Bois Rouge)
One of the island's best-known distilleries, 5km towards Saint-André. Guided tour and tasting from €15, award-winning rhum agricole (the barrel-aged Lontan range) and a shop. It produces rum on a large scale as well as fine aged rums. Booking recommended.
The Tuesday morning market
Near the town centre, smaller than the big coastal markets but authentic: vegetables, tropical fruit in season (lychees, mangoes, longans), local herbal teas, samosas, cooperative-grown vanilla and vacoa (screwpine) basketwork. Follow it with a coffee near the Quartier Français chapel.
Chapels and churches
Several modest, charming country chapels (Quartier Français, Bagatelle, Bel Air), built in 19th-century Creole style from wood and painted corrugated iron. Sainte-Suzanne's parish church, with its shady forecourt, stands in the heart of the town.
Bookable activities
Bassin Bœuf canyon, vanilla, rum, the temple
Checked partner activities in and around Sainte-Suzanne (Saint-André, Saint-Denis, Salazie, Saint-Benoît).
A helicopter flight to see the island from the north
Roland-Garros airport is 25 minutes from Sainte-Suzanne, and several companies run helicopter flights from there over the three cirques, Piton des Neiges and Trou de Fer on the east side. If you're starting your trip in the north, it's the perfect overview on day one.
From Sainte-Suzanne, you can easily follow a morning flight with an afternoon at Niagara Waterfall and the lighthouse. Flights last 30-55 minutes and cost €205-345 depending on the company and length, with group rates from 4 people.
Sainte-Suzanne, Saint-André, Bras-Panon, Saint-Benoît: the windward coast is made for a campervan road trip, with short hops, easy-to-reach natural sights, little traffic and so few places to stay that being self-sufficient really pays off. Yescapa puts local owners in touch with travellers, with far more choice than a rental chain and delivery to Roland-Garros airport possible. Overnight parking is tolerated in a few coastal spots.
In 1841, on his master Ferréol Bellier-Beaumont's plantation at the Domaine du Grand Hazier, a 12-year-old enslaved boy named Edmond Albius worked out how to pollinate the vanilla flower by hand. His discovery made it possible to grow vanilla outside Mexico, where until then it had only been pollinated by a single native bee.
Without Albius, there would be no Bourbon vanilla, and no vanilla industry in Reunion Island or Madagascar. The technique hasn't changed: a sliver of bamboo lifts the rostellum aside and a thumb presses the pollen onto the stigma, one flower at a time, early in the morning. At the Grand Hazier you can see the vines growing and buy a few pods straight from the producer.
To find out more, book a guided vanilla plantation tour or a Creole cooking class with locals, or buy at the Tuesday market. Sainte-Suzanne's Bourbon vanilla is among the most fragrant in the world and has protected designation of origin status.
An hour's drive away
Excursions from Sainte-Suzanne
Sainte-Suzanne sits halfway between Saint-Denis and Saint-Benoît. Here are six half-day or full-day trips from the town.
· From Roland-Garros airport, 15 minutes via the N2.
· Car Jaune bus line 02 (Saint-Denis-Saint-Benoît).
When to come
The dry season, for swimming
· May to November: the dry season, best swimming at Niagara and Bassin Bœuf.
· December to April: frequent rain, watch for flooding.
· Market: every Tuesday morning, all year round.
· The lighthouse at sunset: golden light, ideal for photos.
· Check the forecast 24h before a canyon trip, as the water rises fast.
Frequently asked questions
Sainte-Suzanne: your questions answered
What is there to do in Sainte-Suzanne, Reunion Island?
The highlights are Niagara Waterfall (25m, swimming allowed, 30m from the car park), Bel Air lighthouse (the island's first, 1846), the Chien tunnel (an old railway tunnel turned heritage trail) and Bassin Bœuf upstream (swimming and beginner canyoning). Add the Domaine du Grand Hazier (vanilla and the story of Edmond Albius), the Savanna distillery, the Tuesday morning market and the easy 4km Chemin du Littoral coastal path.
Can you swim at Niagara Waterfall?
Yes, you can swim in the pool at the foot of the falls, mainly from May to November. There isn't always a lifeguard. Take care after heavy rain, as the Sainte-Suzanne river rises quickly. The water is cool (18-22°C). It's quieter early in the morning and busier on Sundays in the hot season. See my full Niagara Waterfall guide.
Is the Bassin Bœuf canyon suitable for families?
Yes. It's one of the easiest beginner canyons in Reunion Island: 2-5m jumps you can skip, natural slides, few abseils and clear, cool water. Usually from age 12, from 10 with some operators. It's a guided half-day with gear provided, ideal for a first go at canyoning or a family outing with teenagers.
Why is the tunnel called the Chien tunnel?
It's a local nickname (chien means dog) from the railway workers who dug this tunnel for the coastal railway (the CFR) in the late 19th century. The rock was so tough that they nicknamed it "the dog". The line ran from 1882 to 1956. Today the tunnel is open to walkers, flat and shady.
Can you visit Bel Air lighthouse?
You can't go inside, but the grounds are open for a stroll, with a garden, a viewpoint indicator and the coastal path. The listed lighthouse was first lit in 1846 and has been automated since 1991. The wooded headland offers one of the prettiest sea views on the windward coast, especially at sunset.
Is there a beach in Sainte-Suzanne?
No. The north-east coast is rocky and pounded by waves, and there's no swimming beach in Sainte-Suzanne. For a dip, head inland to Niagara Waterfall or Bassin Bœuf. For a lagoon, drive to Saint-Gilles (1h30) or Étang-Salé (1h45).
Is Sainte-Suzanne worth a visit?
Yes, for half a day to a full day, ideally combined with Saint-Denis or Saint-André. You can see Niagara Waterfall, the lighthouse, the tunnel and the Chemin du Littoral in a morning, then have lunch in Saint-André and visit the vanilla at the Domaine du Grand Hazier. It's more authentic and quieter than the tourist towns of the west.
Where should you stay in Sainte-Suzanne?
There are several rural gîtes (holiday cottages) and guesthouses, usually good value (€50-100 a night), but few actual hotels. For more choice, stay in Saint-Denis (25 min) or Saint-André (15 min). To be as close as possible to Niagara and Bassin Bœuf, look at the private rentals in town.
When should you visit Sainte-Suzanne?
May to November for swimming at Niagara Waterfall and canyoning at Bassin Bœuf (clear water). From December to April, rain is frequent on the east coast, so watch out for flooding. The market runs every Tuesday, all year round, and Bel Air lighthouse looks its best in the late afternoon.
What's worth seeing around Sainte-Suzanne?
Saint-André, 15 min away (the Colosse Tamil temple, vanilla, Indian food), Saint-Denis, 25 min (the capital, Creole heritage), Bras-Panon, 25 min (the Provanille vanilla cooperative), Salazie, 1h (the greenest and most accessible cirque, with the Voile de la Mariée waterfall) and Saint-Benoît, 40 min (Takamaka, Grand Étang).
How do you get to Sainte-Suzanne?
It's 25 minutes from Saint-Denis via the N2 and 15 minutes from Saint-André. Roland-Garros airport is 15 minutes away, so it makes a sensible first stop if you want to start your trip in the north-east. Car Jaune bus line 02 (Saint-Denis-Saint-Benoît) serves the town, but you'll need a car for Niagara and Bassin Bœuf.
Can you visit the Savanna distillery?
Yes. At Bois Rouge (in the Saint-André area, 5km away), it's one of the island's oldest distilleries. Guided tour and tasting from €15, the barrel-aged Lontan range and a shop. Booking recommended in high season. See my Rum Distillery Visit page.