Things to do in Étang-Salé, Reunion Island's black sand beach
Reunion Island's largest volcanic black sand beach, a lagoon, a protected sea pool (Bassin Pirogue), Le Gouffre carved out by the swell, 1,500ha of shaded state forest and the only 18-hole golf course in the coastal lowlands. An easy south-west stop between Saint-Pierre and Saint-Leu.
Volcanic black sand1,500 ha of forestBassin Pirogue for swimmingCroc Parc for families
Quick facts
The essentials on Étang-Salé
Type
South-west coastal town
Population
≈ 14,000 residents
Distance from Saint-Pierre
≈ 15 km · 20 min
Distance from Saint-Leu
≈ 15 km · 20 min
Climate
23-31°C, fairly dry
Sand
Black, volcanic
State forest
≈ 1,500 ha of casuarina trees
Golf course
Bourbon, 18 holes
Étang-Salé is split between a long seafront strip (les Bains) and a farming and forested hinterland up in the Hauts (the island's highlands). It's drier than the east coast and feels more local than Saint-Gilles, with plenty of seaside options: the main lagoon, Bassin Pirogue and the coastal trail. Accommodation is good value for money.
5 must-sees
Black beach, Bassin Pirogue, Le Gouffre, forest, Croc Parc
Five sites not to miss, from beach and geology to forest and wildlife park. They combine easily over one or two days.
The island's largest black sand beach
Étang-Salé-les-Bains beach is Reunion Island's largest volcanic black sand beach. The lagoon is protected by a reef, lifeguards watch a supervised zone at weekends and in season, and there are shark nets nearby. The sand soaks up the heat and gets very hot around midday (November to April), so bring flip-flops even for a paddle. You'll find beachfront restaurants, mat and paddleboard hire, and snorkelling right off the shore.
Bassin Pirogue, a natural lagoon
A small sea pool protected by a barrier of volcanic rocks, south of the main beach. The water is calm and clear, with reef fish to snorkel with and a lifeguard post in season. An easy 200m path leads there from the car park. Ideal for families, or anyone after a quieter lagoon than the main beach.
Le Gouffre, where the swell puts on a show
A natural channel formed by black rocks on the northern coastal trail, where waves surge in and burst into a powerful plume of spray. The viewpoint has railings and is free to visit, and it's at its most spectacular on a south-westerly swell and at sunset. It's a 15-minute walk from the main beach, or you can drive to its own car park. Worth combining with Le Souffleur in Saint-Leu.
State forest, 1,500ha of casuarina trees
A seafront forest of casuarina and pandanus trees, crossed by walking, mountain-biking, horse-riding and quad-biking trails. You'll find shade even at midday, plus picnic areas, several car parks and a handful of sporting events each year. Also home to the Bourbon 18-hole golf course, one of the island's two golf courses.
Croc Parc, Nile crocodiles
An animal park dedicated to reptiles: around 250 Nile crocodiles, plus tortoises, chameleons, iguanas and giant lizards. There are feeding sessions with commentary at set times, an educational area and an on-site restaurant. €14-17 for adults, €8-12 for children, and allow 2 hours. A good outing if it rains or to break up a morning at the beach. It's in the highlands above the town.
Outdoor
Étang-Salé for active travellers
Beyond the beach, Étang-Salé packs an unusual number of outdoor activities into its forest and coastline. Here are six to mix things up, or to work up a sweat before heading to the lagoon.
Diving in the Marine Reserve
A quieter spot than Saint-Gilles, with plenty of marine life in the Saint-Leu to Étang-Salé stretch of the Marine Reserve: drop-offs, stingrays and reef fish. A local club operates from the harbour, with dives from €55 to €75.
Electric quad biking in the forest
A quad ride along the shaded trails of the state forest, with gear provided and a route suited to beginners. A supervised half-day costs €80-130. The electric option is a recent addition, with no engine noise.
Segway, mountain biking, all-terrain scooters
Several operators run guided outings in the forest: group segway tours, electric mountain biking, all-terrain scooters. Ideal for a family weekend. Booking ahead is recommended.
Golf Club de Bourbon, 18 holes
One of the island's two golf courses, set in the state forest. 18 holes of varying difficulty, a clubhouse, equipment hire and lessons for beginners. Ideal conditions year-round in the dry south-west.
Surfing, steady waves
A reliable surf spot with consistent waves and a surf school on site, suited to beginners and intermediates. Shark spotters are in place and supervision is compulsory. Lessons from €40.
A coastal walk
A pedestrian and cycling trail, pushchair-friendly, from Le Gouffre to the main beach. Ideal at sunrise or sunset, with benches, rest areas and views over the Indian Ocean.
Pierrefonds Airport is a 20-minute drive from Étang-Salé, and several companies fly from there: flights over Piton de la Fournaise, the Wild South (Pointe du Tremblet, Grand Brûlé), Mafate, Cilaos and Piton des Neiges in 30 to 55 minutes.
It's probably the island's best 'beach plus flight' combination: a morning flight, an afternoon at the beach, or the other way round depending on the weather. Prices range from €205 to €345 depending on the company and flight length, with discounts for groups of 4 or more.
Étang-Salé is a perfect stop on a van road trip, with shaded picnic areas in the state forest, direct beach access and a quiet feel on weekdays. Heading south, continue to Manapany and Saint-Pierre; heading north, Saint-Leu and Saint-Gilles. Yescapa brings together a wide selection of fitted-out vans in Reunion Island, with delivery to Roland-Garros or Pierrefonds airport available.
On the west side of the island, sunset is always a highlight. In Étang-Salé, find a spot on the beach or by the moorings of the fishing boats: the local fleet, registered 'RU 974', comes back in at the end of the day and the golden light reflects off the lagoon. Good photo spots: Pointe au Sel (on the border with Saint-Leu), Bassin Pirogue, Le Gouffre on swell nights.
On the food side, Creole street-food stalls line the promenade. Chicken carri (curry), sausage rougail (a spicy tomato stew), Chinese dumplings, samosas, achards (spiced pickled vegetables): expect €8-15 for a takeaway dish, up to €25 at a sit-down restaurant with a sea view. The Thursday morning market (place du marché) and the Saturday open-air market complete the picture, with seasonal fruit, honey, vanilla and vacoa (screwpine) basketry.
For a different taste of local cooking, several tables d'hôtes (guesthouses serving home-cooked dinners) in the highlands offer a Creole set menu in the evening, by reservation. It's often the most authentic meal for your money in the area.
An hour's drive away
Day trips from Étang-Salé
Étang-Salé sits right in the middle of the south-west: 20 minutes from Saint-Pierre and Saint-Leu, 40 minutes from Saint-Gilles and its lagoon. Here are six ideas for a half-day or full day out. All six are easiest under your own steam, by van or car. Flying in without a vehicle yet? Browse available hire cars before you travel.
What is there to do in Étang-Salé, Reunion Island?
Enjoy the black sand beach and its lagoon (the island's largest volcanic beach), swim at Bassin Pirogue, see Le Gouffre from the coastal trail, walk or quad bike through the state forest (1,500ha), visit Croc Parc (Nile crocodiles), play the 18-hole Bourbon golf course and dive the drop-offs of the Marine Reserve.
Where can you swim in Étang-Salé?
The Étang-Salé-les-Bains lagoon, with seasonal supervision and anti-shark nets. Bassin Pirogue offers calmer swimming in a pool protected by volcanic rocks, with a lifeguard in season. Outside the supervised zone, swim with caution. The shark risk concerns open, deep-water spots, not the pools or the protected lagoon.
Is the black sand hot?
Yes, especially between November and April (austral summer). The volcanic black sand absorbs heat and can burn your feet at midday. Flip-flops are essential even for wading, or come early morning and late afternoon. Walking barefoot is fine in the dry season (May to October) outside the 11am-3pm window.
Why is the sand black?
It's volcanic: the south-west coast is made of old lava flows worn down by the waves. The black grains are fragments of basalt and scoria. It's one of the island's three recognised black beaches, and the largest. A geological phenomenon worth seeing at least once.
What is there to do at Bassin Pirogue?
Swimming in a sea pool protected by volcanic rocks. Reached via an easy trail from the car park (200m). The water is calm and clear, with reef fish to snorkel with, which makes it ideal for families. There's a lifeguard in season. Bring a picnic, as there are few facilities on site. Quieter than the main lagoon at weekends.
Is Le Gouffre dangerous?
Spectacular but safe: a viewpoint with railings, a waymarked trail. The danger comes from venturing off-trail onto the rocks, which are slippery and exposed to unpredictable backwash. Always stay on the land side, never turn your back on the ocean. It's most spectacular on a south-westerly swell, which is exactly when you need to take extra care.
Is Croc Parc worth the detour?
Yes for families with children aged 4 to 14. Around 250 Nile crocodiles live in shaded pools, with spectacular feeding sessions at set times and an educational space on reptiles. Allow 2 hours. €14-17 for adults, €8-12 for children. Great on a rainy morning or to break up a beach day, and there's an on-site restaurant.
What activities are there in the state forest?
Electric quad biking, guided group segway tours, electric mountain biking, all-terrain scooters, horse riding, jogging and walking, picnicking. At weekends and during school holidays, book ahead with the operators. The trails stay shaded all day, which makes them ideal in the hot season.
Is there a golf course in Étang-Salé?
Yes. The Golf Club de Bourbon, 18 holes, sits in the state forest. It's one of the island's two golf courses (along with the Bassin Bleu course in Saint-Gilles). Varied difficulty, a clubhouse, equipment hire and lessons, with ideal conditions thanks to the dry south-west climate.
Where can you stay in Étang-Salé?
There are several modest beachfront hotels, charming guesthouses in the highlands and aparthotels. Expect €70-130 for a room. More affordable than Saint-Gilles and the L'Hermitage lagoon. For high-end options, head down to Saint-Pierre (Battant des Lames) or up to Saint-Leu (Iloha Seaview Hôtel).
How long should you stay in Étang-Salé?
A full day covers the beach, Bassin Pirogue, Le Gouffre and the forest. Two days if you add Croc Parc, golf or diving. It's an ideal stop between Saint-Pierre (20 min) and Saint-Leu (20 min), easy to fit into a round-the-island trip or a stay in Saint-Pierre.
How do you get to Étang-Salé?
From Saint-Pierre, 20 min via the N1. From Saint-Leu, 20 min via the N1. From Saint-Denis and Roland-Garros airport, 1h15 via the Route des Tamarins. Car Jaune bus line 10 (Saint-Pierre to Saint-Paul) serves the town. A car is needed for Bassin Pirogue.