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Le Gouffre, Étang-Salé: spectacular waves in a volcanic blowhole
A fissure carved into the basalt lava where the ocean rushes in and bursts out in jets several metres high. A free camping and picnic area under filao trees, with shelters, barbecues, parking and step-free access.
Le Gouffre ("the chasm") in Étang-Salé is one of the most spectacular natural sites on the south-west coast. What makes it special is a volcanic fissure carved into the basalt lava by the sea: the ocean rushes in and bursts out in jets several metres high, like a giant blowhole. A powerful show to watch safely from the shelters under the filao trees.
This page covers what you need to know before pitching your tent: access from the N1, the right gear for the west coast, staying safe near the spray, public facilities and nearby activities (quad biking, bungee jumping, surfing). If you'd rather not sleep in a tent, a campervan fits easily in the car park, a stone's throw from the shelters.
Camping at Le Gouffre: the essentials
A night facing the waves
Arriving. From the car park, shelters under the filao trees are dotted along the rocky shore. At weekends, claim yours as early as you can: the site is well known and fills up fast. For peace and quiet, come on a weekday.
The swell show. This is the big draw: when the sea is rough, waves surge into the volcanic fissure and burst out in jets several metres high. Impressive and very photogenic. Keep well back from the edge, as big waves reach a long way inland in a heavy swell.
Sunset. Facing due west, with nothing blocking the horizon, you'll watch the sun sink straight into the ocean around 5.50pm in the southern winter and 7.05pm in high summer. The golden light turns the spray a spectacular orange.
The night. The waves pound the rocks all night, louder than on an ordinary beach. The filao trees give some shelter from the wind. Walk a little way from the car park for a sky full of stars. Insect repellent comes in handy in the early evening.
How to get to Le Gouffre
Coming from the north of the island on the N1, near Étang-Salé, take the "le gouffre" exit on the right and drive around 600 metres to the car park.
Allow around 30 minutes by car from Saint-Pierre, 5 minutes from the centre of Étang-Salé-les-Bains and 1 hour from Saint-Denis. Fill up with fuel and do your shopping at the Étang-Salé-les-Bains shopping area. Flying into Pierrefonds rather than Roland-Garros? That airport is in Saint-Pierre, so Le Gouffre is about half an hour's drive away: find a rental car and switch the pick-up location to Pierrefonds.
What to bring for the night
- A wind-resistant tent: the south-west coast is exposed to the trade wind and sea spray
- A lightweight sleeping bag (15°C is enough): the sheltered leeward coast stays mild all year
- Windproof clothing: spray from the blowhole can reach the shelters when there's a swell
- A head torch: there's little public lighting
- Bottled water: there's no drinking water on site
- A camping stove, plus charcoal if you plan to use the barbecue shelters
- High-factor sunscreen and a hat: there's little shade in full sun
- Bin bags: take all your rubbish away with you, the site only stays pleasant if visitors look after it
Safety around the sea
Swimming at Le Gouffre is dangerous and there's no bathing area. With waves surging into the fissure, going near the water's edge in rough seas is risky. Stay well back from the edge of the lava, especially in a heavy swell, when big waves reach a long way inland.
Salt in the spray quickly corrodes gear, so protect your camera and electronics. Fires are only allowed in the barbecue shelters: none under the filao trees, where the coastal vegetation could easily catch fire.
Activities to do in Étang-Salé

Quad biking on the west coast
An electric-assist excursion on the trails of Étang-Salé and the highlands.
Bungee jumping in Reunion Island
Air Jump in Étang-Salé, one of the easiest bungee jumping spots to get to on the island.

Surf lessons in Reunion Island
Learn to surf on the gentle waves of the west coast.
Pair it withThe south-west coast and Piton de la Fournaise from the sky
Le Gouffre puts on its show at ground level. A helicopter reveals everything around it: the long black-sand beach of Étang-Salé, the Étang du Gol lagoon, the volcanic southern tip and, on the longer routes, the active crater of Piton de la Fournaise.
8 routes from Saint-Pierre or Saint-Paul, lasting 15 minutes to 1 hour.
Other wild camping spots on the west coast
Étang-Salé seafront
A black-sand beach with facilities, 5 minutes to the north, including showers and toilets.
Étang-Salé forest
A shady, peaceful state forest in the hills above Étang-Salé.
Pointe des Avirons
A hidden spot 5 minutes to the north, with a sand dune and a black-sand beach.
Where to stay near Le Gouffre
Places to stay within 25km, on the west coast between Saint-Pierre and Saint-Leu.
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