In the Cilaos cirque, home to France's only high-altitude tropical vineyard, vines grow at 1,200m. Here's the history, the grapes, the unique terroir and where to taste and buy, with a grape-by-grape table, food pairings and a detailed FAQ.
Vines have grown in the Cilaos cirque (a vast volcanic amphitheatre), at 1,000-1,200m, since the 19th century. Production is tiny (about 30,000 bottles a year), from three noble grapes (Malbec, Chenin, Pinot Noir) plus the historic Isabelle variety. It's France's only commercially structured high-altitude tropical vineyard. The unique climate (a big day-night temperature swing, cool winters and well-drained volcanic soils) lets French grape varieties from a temperate climate ripen at 21° south latitude.
This page covers the vineyard in eight key figures, a table of the six wines with tasting notes and food pairings, the history of the Cilaos vineyard, four ways to visit during a stay in Cilaos, and a detailed FAQ.
To buy directly and plan a visit, see the official Le Chai de Cilaos website. The producer behind almost all of the island's wine offers cellar tours, tastings, sales at the estate and mail-order to mainland France under certain conditions.
Three noble grapes (Malbec, Chenin, Pinot Noir) plus the historic Isabelle variety, made into six main wines. For each one: tasting notes and a recommended food pairing.
| Grape variety / wine | Colour | Aromatic profile | Food pairing |
|---|---|---|---|
| Malbec | Red | A round wine, soft tannins, black fruit (blackberry, blackcurrant), smooth on the palate. Drink within the year | Smoked pork, duck breast, barbecue sauce, aged cheeses |
| Chenin (dry) | Dry white | Fresh, crisp, notes of exotic fruit (Victoria pineapple, passion fruit), a mineral finish | Fish carpaccio, samosas, Creole salad, goat's cheese |
| Chenin (sweet) | Sweet white | The estate's standout wine. Lychee, Victoria pineapple, honey, a sweetness balanced by acidity | Foie gras, blue cheese, lychee dessert, as an aperitif |
| Pinot Noir | Light red | A light wine, red fruit (cherry, raspberry), low in tannins. Made in very small quantities | Chicken curry, light Creole dishes, white meat |
| Isabelle rosé | Rosé | Rustic, fruity, low acidity. Drink young and chilled | Aperitif, grilled meats, everyday cooking |
| Isabelle country wine | Light red | The historic grape variety, robust but less refined. Not to be confused with Malbec | Everyday cooking, hearty dishes, serve chilled |
From the main producer to the self-guided trail, via the local market: four complementary ways to explore the vineyard during a stay in Cilaos. Most of it happens in the village itself. To reach the plots along the Route des Trois Salazes, or to carry your bottles from Le Chai back to where you're staying, it helps to rent a car for your stay, with the keys going to whoever sits out the tasting.
The main producer, at the lower end of the village. A tour of the cellar (barrel room, pressing room, bottling line), an explanation of how the wine is made and a free or low-cost tasting, with bottles on sale at cellar-door prices. Open year-round except on public holidays; allow 1-2h.
Local producers selling wine, honey, AOP-protected Cilaos lentils, embroidery and cured meats, in a genuinely Creole atmosphere. Several small winegrowers bring their own bottles, so it's a good chance to taste before you buy.
Several restaurants in the village serve Cilaos wine with their Creole cooking: carri (curry), smoked pork, garden vegetables. For the most authentic pairing, book a table d'hôte (a home-cooked dinner at a guesthouse), ideally in the company of a producer.
Several planted plots are visible from the village and the Route des Trois Salazes. The Cilaos tourist office offers a self-guided trail through the terraced vines, with notes on the landscape and its history.
