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Cilaos cirque · 1,200 m · UNESCO

The road to Cilaos: 400 bends into the cirque

Reunion Island's only mountain town is reached on the RN5, with its 420 bends and single-lane tunnels. Altitude, journey time, weather, things to do and where to stay: everything you need to plan the drive and your stay.

1,200 m altitude≈420 bendsUNESCO Pitons and cirques
Quick facts

The essentials on Cilaos at a glance

Village altitude
1,200 m
Distance from Saint-Louis
≈37 km
Drive time
1 hr 15 to 1 hr 45
Number of bends
≈420 (RN5)
Cirque
Cilaos (UNESCO)
Population
≈5,500
Climate
Mild, mountain climate
Car Jaune bus
Line S1 Saint-Louis → Cilaos
The road

Why 400 bends?

The RN5 starts in Saint-Louis (around 35 m above sea level) and climbs non-stop to Cilaos (1,200 m) over some 37 km. To hug the walls of the cirque, the road winds round every ravine and goes through several narrow tunnels, including a famous single-lane tunnel controlled by traffic lights.

The exact count depends on what you call a ‘bend’, but it comes to around 420 hairpins. That's more than the classic passes of the Pyrenees and the Alps over a similar distance. If you get car sick, take a tablet before you set off, or take the Car Jaune bus (line S1).

Weather and traffic: avoid heavy rain (risk of rockfalls) and weekend rush hours, when queues can stretch the journey to 2 hours. Before 8am is the best time to go.

Driving up yourself? There's no need for a 4x4: the RN5 is tarmac all the way, and a compact car copes far better when traffic has to squeeze past and in the tunnels. It's worth choosing with that in mind when you pick your rental car.

The RN5's hairpin bends leading up to Cilaos seen from the sky, between cliffs and ravines
A panoramic view of Cilaos village nestled in the cirque, ringed by spectacular cliffs
The cirque

Cilaos, the easiest cirque to explore

Cilaos is one of the three cirques (huge natural amphitheatres) formed by the collapse of Piton des Neiges, along with Mafate and Salazie. Its walls rise to 2,500 m around the village. With Salazie, it's one of the two cirques you can drive into, and it's the most practical base for hiking the island's highest peaks.

The village grew up in the 19th century around the hot springs discovered in 1819, and was long a holiday retreat for wealthy Creole families. Today it lives on tourism, mountain farming (AOC wine, Label Rouge lentils, fresh fruit) and crafts (Cilaos embroidery, listed as living heritage).

What to do

Things to do in Cilaos

From Piton des Neiges to the Bras Rouge canyon, via the hot springs and the vineyard: 6 things to fit into your stay.

Piton des Neiges hike

The highest point in the Indian Ocean at 3,070 m, via the Sentier des Sentinelles from Le Bloc (around 5 hours up, a night at the Caverne Dufour mountain hut, sunrise at the summit).

See Cilaos hikes

Bras Rouge canyoning

A half-day introduction in reddish water (iron oxide), with 4 abseils and 6 jumps. For beginners, from age 12.

Book Bras Rouge

Fleur Jaune canyoning

The island's classic canyon: a full day, abseils of up to 30 m, volcanic scenery. For experienced canyoners only.

Book Fleur Jaune

The thermal baths and Maison Maillard

The hot springs discovered in 1819, around which the village grew. Warm baths at the renovated spa, and a botanical trail nearby.

Cilaos wine and lentils

A tropical mountain vineyard (Cilaos wine has had protected designation (AOC) status since 2016) and prize-winning Label Rouge lentils grown on terraces. Visit the Chai winery and the Sunday market.

Cilaos wine

Cilaos embroidery

A craft handed down since 1900: 'jours de Cilaos' openwork embroidery, on show at the Maison de la Broderie, with live demonstrations and one-off pieces for sale.

A view from the sky

Flying over Cilaos by helicopter

30 to 55 minutes from Saint-Pierre or L'Éperon (west), over all three cirques, Piton des Neiges and the 400-bend road. The most striking way to understand the island's geology.

See helicopter flights
Frequently asked questions

Cilaos and the 400-bend road: your questions answered

Why is it called the 400-bend road?
The RN5 road from Saint-Louis (in the south-west, at around 35 m) to Cilaos (1,200 m) climbs the walls of the cirque over some 37 km. The official count is around 420 bends, rounded down to '400 bends'. The road winds round every ravine, goes through several narrow tunnels (including the famous single-lane tunnel with alternating traffic) and has spectacular views over the cirque, the Bras de Cilaos river and the cliffs.
How long does it take to drive to Cilaos?
Allow 1 hr 15 to 1 hr 45 depending on traffic, weather and vehicle. Early in the morning (before 8am) or on weekdays outside the school holidays, it usually takes 1 hr 15-1 hr 30. In the holidays or at weekends, traffic and coaches squeezing past each other can stretch it to over 2 hours. If you get car sick, take a travel-sickness tablet before you set off, or take the Car Jaune bus (same bends, but with an experienced driver).
What altitude is Cilaos at?
The village centre is at 1,200 m, making Cilaos the island's only town hall (commune) in the mountains. The higher parts of Cilaos (Le Bloc, Bras Sec, Palmiste Rouge) climb to 1,600 m. Piton des Neiges, the island's highest point at 3,070 m, is reached on the Sentier des Sentinelles from Le Bloc.
Is the road dangerous?
No more than other mountain roads, as long as you adapt your driving: slow down, don't overtake on bends, and watch out for coaches and lorries, which have priority in the single-lane tunnels. Avoid heavy rain (risk of rockfalls and temporary closures). Remember that traffic drives on the right. Drivers not used to mountain roads often take the bus instead and enjoy the view.
Can I get to Cilaos without a car?
Yes, the Car Jaune S1 bus (Saint-Louis to Cilaos) runs several times a day, costs around €4 and takes about 1 hr 30 up. The village is easy to explore on foot, and local shuttles serve the hamlets (Le Bloc, Bras Sec, Îlet à Cordes). For more remote hikes, a 4x4 taxi can drop you at the trailhead.
When is the best time to visit Cilaos?
Any time of year. The dry season (May-November) has the best visibility, trails in good condition and cool weather (8 to 22°C depending on the time of day). The wet season (December-April) is still beautiful, but the clouds roll in quickly after 11am and some trails close after heavy rain. The wine and lentil festival is in October, when the Grand Raid ultra-trail (Diagonale des Fous) also passes through Cilaos.
What is there to do in Cilaos?
Hiking (Piton des Neiges, Roche Merveilleuse, Cap Noir, the Sentier des Sentinelles), canyoning (Bras Rouge for beginners, Fleur Jaune for the experienced), swimming in the Bras Rouge pool or at the Bras Rouge waterfall, wine and lentil tasting, thermal baths, embroidery, climbing, mountain biking. Allow at least 2 days, ideally 3 to 4 nights.
Where to stay in Cilaos
There's plenty of choice: traditional family gîtes (around €35-50 a night half-board), guesthouses (around €60-100) and boutique hotels (Le Vieux Cep, Tsilaosa, Le Bois Rouge). Wild camping is banned in the village but allowed higher up at certain spots (Ravine Blanche, and the Bélouve gîte further afield). Book 2-4 weeks ahead in high season, and up to 3 months ahead for Piton des Neiges in the dry season.
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Article updated on 19 September 2026.