Gîte Chez Jimmy, Marla: a lively hikers' stop and Snack Le Marla in the heart of Mafate

Arriving in Marla. Whichever way you come into the cirque (the Col du Taïbit from Cilaos, the Col des Bœufs from Salazie, or from La Nouvelle or Roche Plate on the inner trails), Marla is usually one of the last stops of the day, at the foot of the Bord-Martin ridge, 1,600 metres up. Jimmy's gîte is easy to spot: its ‘Snack Le Marla’ sign is the first thing you see as you walk into the hamlet.

The accommodation. There are three options: dorms sleeping up to 8 people (bedding provided), recently renovated bungalows with a panoramic terrace over the cirque, and a field next door to pitch your tent if you're carrying your own gear. The bathrooms have been fully refurbished with hot water, a rare luxury in Mafate.

Snack Le Marla. This is the heart of the place. At any time of day, you can order takeaway sandwiches, Creole plates and cold drinks. In the evening, a shared Creole dinner is served on the big wooden terrace: caris (Creole curries), rougails, rice, beans, sometimes homemade desserts. In the morning, a hearty breakfast on the terrace, facing the cliffs as they catch the sunrise.

Séga and maloya nights. This is what turns a simple night into a memory: Jimmy and his team often host local musicians playing séga and maloya, the island's traditional Creole music. The bar stays open late but is soundproofed from the dorms, so early sleepers can still get their rest. It's one of the few genuinely lively evenings you'll find in Mafate.