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Gîte Chez Paule et Jo, Dos d'Âne: Chef Mathieu's cooking and a gateway to Mafate
A family-run gîte (guesthouse) in Dos d'Âne, in the hills above La Possession. Half-board from €54, Creole cooking by Chef Mathieu with local produce and free-range eggs, and a warm welcome by the fireplace. Rated 7.7/10 from 211 Booking reviews.
The gîte Chez Paule et Jo, in the small village of Dos d'Âne (in the hills above La Possession), is one of the most popular stops for hikers about to enter the Mafate cirque from the north. What makes it special is the cooking by Chef Mathieu, who prepares Creole dishes with pesticide-free local produce and free-range eggs. The family atmosphere, drinks by the fireplace and a 7.7/10 rating from 211 Booking reviews make it a classic.
Here's what you need to know: rates (from €54 half-board), getting there from La Possession, room types (double, quadruple, dorms), Chef Mathieu's cooking and the trails that start here (Roche Écrite, Aurère via Deux Bras, the GR2 long-distance path), plus ideas for planning a crossing.
The gîte essentials
A night with Paule and Jo before Mafate
Arriving in Dos d'Âne. The village is one of the quietest in the hills above La Possession, perched above the cliffs overlooking Mafate. Paule and Jo's gîte is a warm family home on Allée Roche Vert Bouteille. The welcome is one of its hallmarks, praised in the vast majority of Booking reviews.
Three room types. Depending on your trip: double rooms (couples), quadruple rooms (families or groups) or dorms (solo travellers, independent hikers). All share the same family atmosphere and Chef Mathieu's table d'hôte (shared home-cooked dinner).
Chef Mathieu's cooking. It's the main draw: Creole meals made with pesticide-free local produce and free-range eggs. Caris (Creole curries), rougails, brèdes (leafy greens) broth and gratins, of a quality few gîtes on the island can match. In the cooler season, drinks are served by the fireplace, a moment hikers and hosts share together.
The ideal starting point. Dos d'Âne is the northern gateway to Mafate. The trails to Aurère via Deux Bras, to the Roche Écrite mountain hut and the GR2 all start on foot from the village. It's the perfect stop before heading into the cirque, or on your way out after a crossing.
How to get to Dos d'Âne
From La Possession, take the Dos d'Âne road, which winds up into the hills. Allow about 30 minutes by car from La Possession and 40 minutes from Saint-Denis. The road is paved all the way and fine for any standard car.
Parking is right at the gîte. If you're hiking to Mafate or Roche Écrite, you can leave your car in the gîte's car park or drive to the trailhead (Sans Souci, Deux Bras). Fuel is available in La Possession.
Services and facilities at the gîte
- Double and quadruple rooms, dorms
- Chef Mathieu's cooking: pesticide-free local produce, free-range eggs
- Drinks served by the fireplace in the cooler season
- Half-board: a Creole dinner plus breakfast
- Free Wi-Fi throughout the property
- Well-maintained toilets and showers
- On-site parking
- A shared water point and barbecue
- Trail advice for Mafate, Roche Écrite and the GR2
- Rated 7.7/10 on Booking from 211 reviews
How much does a night cost?
From €54 half-board, according to Booking reviews. That includes your bed, a Creole dinner and breakfast, which is very good value for independent hikers. Double and quadruple rooms cost more.
You can book directly on Booking.com, where the property is rated 7.7/10 from 211 reviews. Check current rates when booking, as they vary by season.
Booking Chez Paule et Jo
Address: 4 allée Roche Vert Bouteille, La Possession
Book directly on Booking.com (7.7/10 from 211 reviews). Book several weeks ahead in high season (June to October).
Hikes from Dos d'Âne
The village is the northern gateway to Mafate and the classic starting point for several major trails.
Guided trek in Mafate from Cayenne
A multi-day crossing of the cirque, starting from Sans Souci, near Dos d'Âne.
Bélouve and Trou de Fer
A guided walk to the viewpoint over the island's tallest waterfall.

Helicopter flight over Mafate
A panoramic flight over the cirque, the natural complement to crossing it on foot.
Also worth doingReunion Island seen from the sky
From the gîte you see the island at ground level. A helicopter shows you the bigger picture: peaks, cirques, lava flows and lagoon in just a few minutes.
There are 8 routes departing from Saint-Pierre or Saint-Paul, lasting 15 minutes to 1 hour.
Other gîtes near Mafate
Roche Écrite Mountain Hut
A mountain hut at 1,700m, reachable from Dos d'Âne in 3.5 hours.
Chez Tatie Jo, Aurère
A warm and welcoming gîte in the cirque, reachable on foot from Dos d'Âne via Deux Bras.
Chez Jimmy, Marla, Mafate
The liveliest gîte in the cirque, with sega and maloya music.
Alternative accommodation nearby
To compare, or if the gîte is full, here are partner places to stay within 25 km.
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