First, to avoid disappointment: the colours are real, but noticeably softer than the heavily saturated photos you see online. You're looking at ochre, rust and violet-tinted dunes, not a neon rainbow. To see them at their best, come under clear skies and mid-morning, when the light brings them out.
Second, the site is a victim of its own success. Tour coaches mostly arrive around midday and it quickly gets touristy. The smart move is to be there right at opening, 8.30am, or in the late afternoon, to enjoy the walkways in peace.
Seeing just the dunes is quick (45 minutes). To get your money's worth, take the time to see the waterfall viewpoint and the tortoise park too, then move on to another sight nearby. The tortoise enclosure is small, so don't go just for that.
My advice to help you decide: Chamarel is worth the detour if you're already in the south-west, combined with Le Morne and the Black River Gorges. But crossing the island just for these dunes may leave you underwhelmed. It's a curiosity to fit into a day out, not a destination in itself.