gite5 km
Mafate · Îlet à Malheur · GR R2
Camping Les Filaos, Îlet à Malheur: camping and Creole meals at Mr Libelle's on the GR R2 trail
A campsite and gîte (hikers' guesthouse) at Mr Libelle's in Îlet à Malheur, on the GR R2 trail between Îlet à Bourse and Aurère. Pitch a tent or take a dorm bed, enjoy a home-cooked Creole dinner (table d'hôte), hot showers and camping gear hire: a flexible overnight stop in Mafate.
Îlet à Malheur, MafatelocationFrom €5 / personrateGR R2trailHot showers and gear hireextras
Camping Les Filaos at Mr Libelle's is one of the most practical places to stay in Îlet à Malheur, a hamlet on the famous GR R2 trail linking Îlet à Bourse in the south-west to Aurère in the north-east. It offers several things that are rare in Mafate: hot water, camping gear hire (tent, sleeping bag, mat), a Creole table d'hôte(home-cooked set meal) made with local produce, and even rooms and dorms for hikers who'd rather not camp.
Here's what you need to know before booking: prices, how to get there from the different Mafate trailheads, facilities (hot water, gear hire), dinner and breakfast, and viewpoints an hour's walk away plus ideas for planning your crossing. The GR R2 trail links almost the whole cirque, which you can also explore on the guided trek from Cayenne.
At a glance
The campsite essentials
The experience
A night at the Filaos with Mr Libelle
Arriving in Îlet à Malheur. Right on the GR R2 trail, Îlet à Malheuris one of the busiest crossing points in the cirque for hikers on a traverse. You can't miss Mr Libelle's hand-painted signs by the trail, which (in French) list everything on offer: "Les Filaos Gîte Chambre Dortoir", "Table d'Hôte Boissons Café Thé", "Camping eau chaude WC", "Location matériel de camping tente duvet matelas": rooms and dorms, meals and drinks, camping with hot water and toilets, and tent, sleeping bag and mat hire.
Something for everyone.That's its big strength: depending on your trip, you can pitch your own tent on the campsite, hire the gear if you're travelling light, or sleep in a room or dormif you'd rather have a proper bed. That flexibility makes it ideal for mixed groups (some in tents, others in a room).
The table d'hôte. Dinner and breakfast are prepared on site with local produce. Think carris (curries), rougails (spicy tomato stews), achards (pickled vegetables), rice, beans and sometimes homemade desserts. The price often includes dinner and breakfast. It's one of the main reasons to come here rather than to another Mafate campsite: the quality of the cooking and sharing a meal with your hosts.
The facilities. The gîte offers toilets with hot water (rare in Mafate), water points, and a small grocery store on site to restock. An hour's walk away are the "deux fesses" and "grand rein" viewpoints, with superb views over the cirque.
How to get there
How to reach Îlet à Malheur
Îlet à Malheur is only reachable on foot, via the GR R2 trail, which crosses the Mafate cirque from south-west to north-east. Several main entry points lead to the îlet:
From Sans Souci (La Possession): around 4 to 5 hours on foot, via Cayenne and then a branch towards Îlet à Malheur. A demanding trail with a lot of climbing.
From Aurère: around 1h30 on foot, the shortest option if you arrive via the north entrance (Sans Souci to Aurère, then Aurère to Îlet à Malheur).
From Roche Plate or La Nouvelle: within the cirque on the GR R2, allow 4 to 6 hours depending on where you start.
There are no vehicles here: everything comes in on foot or by helicopter. Stock up on supplies before you set off.
On site
Services and facilities at the gîte
- Tent pitches for your own tent
- Camping gear hire (tent, sleeping bag, mat)
- Rooms and dorms available (an alternative to a tent)
- Home-cooked Creole dinner and breakfast included in the price
- Hot and cold drinks
- A small grocery store on site to restock
- Hot water at the showers (rare in Mafate)
- Well-kept toilets
- A water point for washing up and washing
- Trail advice from your hosts
Rates
How much does a night cost?
Prices start from €5 per person per night (according to my camping guide). For the room or dorm and the table d'hôte(dinner plus breakfast), expect to pay more. Half-board is the best-value option for hikers who'd rather not cook.
Camping gear hire (tent, sleeping bag, mat) is a great way to travel light on the way in. Confirm current rates by phone before booking. No card payments, bring cash.
Contact & booking
Booking Les Filaos with Mr Libelle
Phone: +262 692 53 15 21
Address: Chemin Îlet à Malheur, 97419 La Possession
Bookings by phone only. The signal is poor in Îlet à Malheur, so be patient when calling. Book several weeks ahead in high season (June to October).
Tell them whether you'd like gear hire, a room or dorm bed, or simply the tent pitch, and whether you want the table d'hôte (dinner plus breakfast).
Combine it with
Activities to combine with the campsite
Îlet à Malheur sits on the GR R2. Use your stop to visit the local viewpoints or carry on to other îlets (hamlets).
Guided trek in Mafate from Cayenne
A multi-day crossing of the cirque, starting from Cayenne.
See the activity
Bélouve and the Trou de Fer waterfall
A guided trail from the highlands of Salazie to the island's tallest waterfall, also visible from Îlet à Malheur.
See the activity
Horse riding at Piton Maïdo
A horse ride through the cryptomeria (Japanese cedar) forests of the western highlands, towards the ridge overlooking Mafate.
See the activity
Also worth doingAerial view
Mafate from the air
Camping in Îlet à Malheur shows you the heart of Mafate from the ground, with the GR R2 underfoot. A helicopter gives you the opposite view, flying over the whole cirque in a few minutes, from the rampart shared with Salazie to the Brèche, and reveals the 'deux fesses' and 'grand rein' viewpoints within their full setting.
Ideal alongside a trek, so you see the same landscape from both angles. 8 routes, from 15 minutes to 1 hour.
From €125 · 210 Manawa reviews · Saint-Pierre / Saint-Paul
See helicopter rates
Other campsites
Other campsites in the Mafate cirque
Camping Chez Gigi, Îlet à Malheur
Another campsite in Îlet à Malheur, staying with a local family, from €7 per person.
See the campsite
Camping La Bonne Terre, Aurère
A campsite at €5 per person in Aurère, 1h30's walk to the north.
See the campsite
Camping du Cryptoméria, La Nouvelle
A campsite in a cryptomeria forest in the cirque's largest îlet (check availability).
See the campsite
Stay nearby
Alternative accommodation nearby
If the campsite is full or you're after more comfort, here are partner places to stay within 25 km.
gite5 km
hotel7 km
hotel13 kmFrequently asked questions
FAQ: everything to know before booking
How do you book with Mr Libelle?
Book by phone on +262 692 53 15 21. Signal is poor in Îlet à Malheur, so be patient. Plan several weeks ahead in high season (June to October). Tell them what you need (camping, gear hire, room, dorm) and whether you want dinner and breakfast.
How much does a night cost?
€5 per person per night for a tent pitch (according to my camping guide). Rooms, dorms, gear hire and meals cost more. Half-board (dinner and breakfast) is the best-value option for hikers.
Is there really hot water at the showers?
Yes, that's one of the gîte's biggest advantages over other Mafate campsites: hot water is available at the showers. That's rare in the cirque, and it makes a real difference after a day of walking.
Can you rent camping gear on site?
Yes, Mr Libelle hires out tents, sleeping bags and mats. It's ideal for anyone wanting to travel light on the access trail, or for hikers without their own gear. Confirm availability by phone when booking.
How do you get to Îlet à Malheur?
Îlet à Malheur is only reachable on foot, via the GR R2 trail. There are three main options: from Sans Souci (La Possession, 4-5 hours via Cayenne), from Aurère (1h30, the shortest, via the northern entrance), or from Roche Plate or La Nouvelle within the cirque (4-6 hours).
What are the 'deux fesses' and 'grand rein' viewpoints?
These are panoramic viewpoints reachable about 1 hour's walk from the gîte. They offer spectacular views over the Mafate cirque. The names (Creole for 'two buttocks' and 'big kidney') refer to the shapes of the landforms seen from there. Don't miss them if you can spare an extra half-day in Îlet à Malheur.
What activities pair well with the campsite?
Îlet à Malheur is on the GR R2 trail, so you can carry on to Aurère, Cayenne, La Nouvelle or Roche Plate, or walk to the local viewpoints (deux fesses, grand rein). For the big picture, the helicopter flyover is unbeatable.
When should you come and camp at the Filaos?
The southern winter (May to October) offers the most settled conditions for Mafate's trails: dry ground, often clear skies, cool but pleasant temperatures. Avoid the cyclone season from January to March, when some trails can become impassable.
Page updated on 24 September 2026. GPS coordinates, contact details and rates verified as of this date. Confirm availability with the campsite before travelling.